1. Planting: 

• Dig a hole twice as wide but no deeper than the grow pot your plant arrives in. Remove the plant and place it in the hole, keeping the top of the root ball level with the soil. Backfill 50/50 with a mix of amendments such as peat moss or new top soil to native soil. Water deeply. Mulch 3 inches away from the base of the trunk

• Choose a pot that is no wider than 1-2 inches than the pot the plant was shipped to you in. This prevents excessive soil from collecting water that sits on the roots of the plant. Ensure the pot has good drainage holes. Remove plant from grow pot and place in your own pot. Backfill with well draining potting mix. Water pot deeply until water comes out the bottom of your pot.

2. Watering: Allow your Sikitita to dry out in between waterings. However, when the soil is dry (down to about the first two inches), water it deeply, ensuring the soil becomes fully saturated.

3. Fertilizing: Use a high nitrogen fertilizer, something like a 17-6-10 timed-release formula. And if your Sikitita shows signs of weeds, simply remove the weeds and as much of the weed root system as possible.

4. Pruning: Thin out young plants to 3 to 4 main branches. After blooming in spring, clip the tips of the branches. Make the cut just above the point where a pair of leaves attaches to the stem. Leave each branch at least 6 inches long, but how much longer is up to you and what will look good on your balcony or patio.

5. Pollination: Sikitita Olives are usually self-fertile. However, you will get better fruit production if you have more than one tree. Be sure to either choose two of the same variety, or if you are picking different varieties, two or more trees that bloom at the same time.